I again have no excuses as to why I have fallen so behind while keeping this blog. All I can say is: life is busy. So here's details of my trip to Poland, which took place 17-20 November.
Flying Ryanair, the main budget airline in the UK, is an experience. My friend Emma had flown it before, but my first time with 'the on-time airline' was our Krakow excursion. Just imagine... frantically packing all I can fit into my backpack for the weekend (my first time backpacking-it in Europe!); a 1 hour bus ride out to Stansted Airport (it's called London-Stansted but honestly, it's in the middle of nowhere outside of London); slight panic attack at security when I realize the liquids I packed are a. over 100ml and b. not in a clear plastic bag; navigate through the labyrinth that is the airport; stand in line for an hour before making a mad charge to the plane (no reserved seats); advertisements the whole flight, no complimentary drinks (even water), and a little triumphant melody played over the speakers when we make it 'on-time'. Now I know that travel isn't relaxing but this was discomfort at a whole new level. On the bright side, I realized my love for train travel, which after the delay coming back from Edinburgh, I thought was permanently lost.
We arrived safe and sound in Krakow and met our taxi driver. The drive to the hostel was crazy - it was dark and the densest fog I've ever seen blanketed the area. You couldn't see the buildings six feet away from you. But we made it, checked in to the Elephant-on-the-Moon hostel, ran out to the only store open at 9pm (a liquor store) for some food, and settled in for the night.
A note on the Elephant-on-the-Moon Hostel - BEST HOSTEL EVER. The owner, Aga, is such a sweetheart and really takes care of you. The hostel definitely has a home-y feel and you get breakfast and it's definitely the cheapest I've stayed at. Aga also very kindly moved us from a dorm-style room to a room with just two twin beds even though we hadn't paid for a private room. It was wonderful.
On Friday, we took a day-long tour to Auschwitz and Birkenau, which are located about an hour and a half outside of the city of Krakow. It is difficult to convey here what visiting the camps was like; to say 'it was heartbreaking' or 'it was shocking' just does not seem to cover it. We spent a total of 3 hours walking in the two camps and I don't think I was able to say a full sentence the whole time. The harsh reality of what happened kind of slams you in the chest and knocks the wind and the tears out of you; you walk around stunned silent. The exhibits in Auschwitz, which are housed in the blocks where prisoners were kept, humanize the Holocaust in a way that other museums fail to do. There is a room with thousands of shoes taken from prisoners who perished at Auschwitz or Birkenau, a room with childrens' clothing, a display full of eyeglasses... You gain a level of understanding that no book or movie can give. We've all seen the famous images of the place, but to see the wood and brick and barbed wire yourself is powerful.
Auschwitz
From Auschwitz I, our group moved to Auschwitz-Birkenau. Our guide, a Polish woman, took us through both camps, telling us information we needed to know but that we probably wished we didn't have to hear. On entering Birkenau, however, she was quiet as we walked along the rail tracks that run through the middle of the camp. On your left are the womens' brick barracks, many still standing. On your right are the mens' wooden barracks, which were originally built as horse stables and few of which are still standing. However, the small stone furnaces of each barrack on both sides still stand: you look out over a field of hundreds of little chimneys. Each barrack housed hundreds of people. The scale of the camp is startling. Birkenau, though called a museum, has remained untouched since the end of the war. The ruins of the barracks and the rubble from the blown-up gas chambers and crematorium lie there, on this field, as a shouting warning to humankind. There are no words - only despair.
Birkenau
Visiting the camps will be a memory I carry with me always.
We returned to Krakow for dinner in the city center that evening. The pierogi in Poland - excellent. I also tried some Polish cherry vodka with banana juice, which was quite good.
For our Saturday in Krakow, Emma and I took a free 3-hr walking tour of Royal Krakow. For centuries, the city served as the seat of monarchical government in Poland (before the capital was transferred to Warsaw). Much of the old city remains, as Krakow was not bombed during the Second World War. Our tour began in the city center, Market Square, and took us past the medieval city gates that remain, Wawel Castle, and the famous Krakow dragon (the statue is 'alive' in that it spouts fire every few minutes). I had heard that Krakow was a gorgeous city and I definitely agree. The architectural styles of so many eras appear within the small city centre, housing so much history.
Market Square
Tadeusz Kosciuszko Monument at Wawel Castle - Love him.
Wawel Castle - the Cathedral which houses the remains of Poland's kings and queens, Kosciuszko, and is the final resting place of Poland's president and first lady that were killed in the tragic plane crash last year.
Back in Market Square - Shopping in the Arcade.
A pro: Emma and I ate well in Poland - pierogi and the famous Krakow pretzels. They were delicious.
A con: It was FREEZING in Poland - in the negative degrees C. Such a dramatic change from London. I had to buy a wool hat. Below is me, in my hat, with my pretzel. I'm wearing two pairs of socks and I had to take off my two pairs of gloves to eat my pretzel. You're lucky I'm smiling.
Our final site to visit in Krakow was Oskar Schlinder's factory. The factory now houses an exhibit about the Nazi Occupation of Krakow, showing what life was life for both Jews and Poles in the city from 1939-1945. The way of life for non-Jewish civilians under Nazi rule is something I haven't really been exposed to in my education, so it was very interesting to learn about the sufferings and resistance of those just trying to live in Poland. Many Poles were imprisoned or killed during the occupation, including faculty of the universities and women who were involved in the Polish resistance. The factory as has a few rooms dedicated to Schlinder and his efforts during the war. His office has been reconstructed and there is a circular room with metal walls that list all the names of the Jewish workers he saved. It was astonishing to see how many names there were.
Schlinder's Factory
Visiting Poland, the land of my ancestors, was a unique experience. I was fortunate to have Emma with me and we were so glad to have had the opportunity to see a city that has witnessed so much triumph and tragedy over the centuries.
So that's Poland. My last trip of November was to Stratford-upon-Avon, which I will post on very soon.
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